Again, Coppelia! My merino jersey version

I said I was going to make it in merino wool and here it is! My second Coppelia from Papercut Patterns. As I said in my last post this is an easy pattern! I used my serger for everything but the final bit of attaching the band at the end.

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This amazing fabric is merino jersey, bought almost a year ago at the Fabric Store in L.A. It’s grey with turquoise dots, and I love it! Look at it! It’s freaking beautiful! It wasn’t cheap, but who cares? It’s great quality, cozy and gorgeous. I felt so guilty and sad looking at the pile of fabric noodles my serger left behind because I hated the idea of wasting it. I love how “sweatery” this version turned out.

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I made slight changes to this pattern from last time because after washing it I only had 1.4 metres of fabric, and the pattern needs 1.6 meters for the unaltered pattern. I don’t know how long it took me and how many different ways of laying out the pattern pieces before I finally figured out how to make it work with that amount of fabric, but I did it! Due to the fabric constraints I could only lengthen the bodice by 2 inches instead of the 3 inches in the previous version, and I had to cut the band into 2 pieces instead of three using the entire width of the fabric. This fortunately gave a couple of extra inches to make up for the band sitting below my waist closer to my hips.

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I can tie it around my waist but I prefer how it looks and feels when I wear it tied in the back.

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Yikes! Looks like I had a few drinks before topstitching the waistband to the bodice.

 

Good news: my topstitching with knits is getting better. Bad news: top stitching with the knits is still pretty terrible. I am not sure what foot I should be using for top stitching knits. I used my walking foot for both Coppelia tops, but I am now wondering if I should have been using my edge stitching foot.

I didn’t realize the needle tension on my serger should have been a bit tighter until after I had attached the neck band on. I used light grey serging thread which you can see through the front if you pull at the seams. If for some reason I start pulling my seams like a crazy person then I will go over and machine stitch with a thread in a better matched colour. Live and learn right?

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My Coppelia wrap

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Look at me, finally making a top to wear!! I even have a new menu item on my blog. Here is my first version of the Coppelia Cardigan from Papercut Patterns. Oh yes, I will be making more.

I have had the Coppelia cardi pattern for a while now and finally made a wearable muslin. I have some precious and gorgeous merino jersey that I bought specifically for this pattern when I was in L.A. last year. I definitely had to make a test version before cutting into that stuff!

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For this version I used a yummy bamboo rayon knit. What I mean by yummy is that it is soft, drapey, and  just has the perfect feel to it.  Just dreamy! I went with a charcoal for this one because I need more basics in my handmade wardrobe.

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The ease is easier to see in this pic – you can also see how much room there still is under the arm.

This pattern was very easy to make, and 90% of it was sewn on my serger. I made the XS but could have made one size smaller. Based on other bloggers advice who had lengthened this pattern to wear with jeans I lengthened the front and back pieces by 3 inches and trued up the seams. I also lengthened the neck band by 3 inches, but should have measured that more carefully. I had to stretch is out a bit as I sewed to make it meet the ends properly. Unfortunately I forgot about lengthening the tie band. This pattern was made to wrap around the waist, so moving it down to the my hip height means that I should have increased the overall length by at least 10 inches. So, this will one will remain tied in the back which I am fine with.

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The other changes I made to this pattern was to take in the side seams starting from the wrist at .5 and inch and increasing to 1 inch at the armpit, then into nothing at the bodice base. I could have taken the seams in more but I wanted a looser fit. It’s hard to tell from these photos that is is not skin tight but there is a lot of ease.

If you are unsure about this pattern, just order it and make it! The pattern came together so smoothly and was a joy to sew.

My top stitching on the tie band is embarrassingly terrible – just have to practice more!

 

My Sigma Dress!

 

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Ok, I just could not wait any longer for the proper invisible zipper foot I ordered weeks ago to come in so I finished my Sigma dress from Papercut Patterns. The zipper is not a stellar job but oh well, the next one will be better.This pattern is a semi fitted dress with a hem that makes it risky to bend over in. Like everyone warns, this dress is short! I added 2 inches to hem line and look how short it is ( I am 5’3″).

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I love this dress, it is simple and there are many possibilities! This construction was simple and easy – a bodice with 4 darts in the front and 2 in the back, and a skirt with a small gathers around the pockets. The instructions were easy to follow, and the paper the pattern is printed on is sturdy (no tissue paper here!). The other dress options is a skirt with no gathers as well as just the skirts themselves. I plan on trying all the variations. I love conservative dresses with short hems, though not entirely work appropriate, but super cute. Good thing I lengthened mine so I can wear it to work.

I would also like to try to make another version of this dress but with a more fitted bodice. I am not sure if I should go down a size or alter the XS size that I used for this one.

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The adjustments I made:

1. Half inch darts in the back from the neckline – necklines usually gape for me so I didn’t bother waiting to try it on before I made them. I will do this again next time.

2. Added 2 inches to the length of the skirt – I might try for 3 for my next one.

3. Lined the skirt with bemberg rayon.

4. Used 5/8 seam allowance for zipper instead of 3/8 for a closer fit.

5. Sleeves –  I had originally put in the full length sleeve and thought it was too much pattern so I went for the 3/4 length look. Even though I marked and measured the sleeves when I was wearing the dress, somehow I got a bit too happy with trimming them and now they are elbow sleeves. I actually kind of like them!